The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.
Part Seventy Seven Q&A 1901 - 1925
1901. I have a 2006 TE PT with 46k miles. I am experiencing a problem with the rear tail light and turn signal bulbs burning out. I am on my third set after 49,000 miles on the vehicle. The bulbs turn a "milky white" color then burn out. The sockets also have a dark brown coloration to them where the bulbs plug into them from the otherwise normal off-white or cream color. Is it possible that they are getting too hot? If that is so, what would be causing them to overheat? Thanks for any help. – Rick, from Texas.
Generally speaking, there have been few reports of issues with the lamps however your description of the socket and frequent replacement of lamps have been reported by a few owners who have opted to use aftermarket lamps instead of OE lamps.
If you're using aftermarket lamps inspect the sockets for damage. Hopefully, the only necessary action will be to clean the contact points within the sockets. Then replace the current lamps with OE lamps:
Rear Tail/Stop - 3157
Rear Turn Signal - 3757A
If the sockets are damaged and require replacement the OE IPB which I'm including indicates that the turn/stop lamp sockets are not available as separate components. You may have to replace the entire rear lamp unit however check with your local dealer for an alternative course of action. |
It's not clear by your description if this is occurring with the rear right or left side lamps, or both. If you're using OE lamps and experiencing this issue it could be a hardware issue (individual socket) or wiring. However if it's occurring with both the stop and turn lamps, it is more probable an issue (low or high voltage, open, short, etc.) with the turn/stop lamp control circuits, or TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module).
You may bee able to physically check the hardware for obvious problems, but a number of circuits in the 06 and later model year PT's are far more complex to troubleshoot than in earlier model years and require the use of a DRB III scan tool and diagnostic manual. We can provide the diagnostic for most of these related faults however your local dealer would have to provide you with the lamp related DTC (B????). Unless you have the knowledge and experience to handle the repair of these components it is usually more cost effective to have the dealer handle the repair while conducting the scan.
Owner follow up - Thanks for your quick reply. Other symptoms that I have noticed lately; while driving at night with the headlights on, every once in a while, the headlights will flicker or dim slightly then go quickly back to normal brightness. There is no specific time or interval that this occurs, just every so often. I know that intermittent electrical problems are the worst to diagnose or repair.
On 06/09 while I had the vehicle in for a lube, oil and filter the shop also did a courtesy inspection and load test of the battery. The report they gave me said that the battery may need replacing soon as it was at 465 CCA. I have never had a problem starting the vehicle so I thought I would just run this battery until it completely quit. The test was conducted during a hot Texas summer which can put a real strain on vehicle batteries.
I had the vehicle back at the same shop last week and asked them to test the battery again and they said the battery now had 550 CCA. I was somewhat suspicious of this because it is the original battery in the vehicle, now 4 years old and the original battery is only rated 510 CCA. Is it unusual for an original battery to last 4 years?
PTDIY follow up – Some domestic owners have reported flickering of both the interior and exterior lights however Chrysler has indicated that minor flickering is normal. Those owners who have felt otherwise have suspected the battery, alternator or regulator however we don't have any feedback on whether these components were faulty and or resolved the issues.
I can tell you that some early model year owners who have diesel PT's had similar complaints and Chrysler determined that in some instances the PT's PCM required reprogramming, which resolved the issue. A TSB was issued for this problem.
I'm in central Florida and the OE battery on my 2001 PT lasted 5 years. Based upon the number of owner complaints we receive each winter cold weather is a far more significant factor than the local heat we experience here with regard to battery life and starting the vehicle.
The second battery check reading that you received sounds like an anomaly, or they didn't conduct the test correctly. You may want to have it rechecked. I would also check the condition of the battery terminals and connectors given the influence they have on battery life and the starting circuitry during colder weather.
If it is beginning to fail you may want to consider replacing it before it dies in your driveway at which time you may be rushed to find a suitable replacement. The replacement spec's are important, but so are the physical spec's which many folks overlook. A battery with the appropriate technical spec's may or may not physically fit into the area where the OE battery resides without some modification to the battery tray, strap, cables, etc. The PT battery has a reverse terminal design ("R" in 26R) and most other batteries do not. If you've peeked into the compartment you understand how snug the OE battery is in its current location.
OE 2.4L Battery P/N 0467 1579AB, BCI Group Size 26R, CCA 510, RC 92 Minutes, AH 50, LTA 255
That being said, I would be surprised if the rear lamp issue is related to minor intermittent flickering problem or a failing battery. Without access I'm only guessing, but your description of premature lamp burnout may suggest that it is receiving too much current through the control circuit which would allow the bulb to shine brighter and consequently burn hotter causing the discolored socket and premature bulb burn out.
Owner follow up - I checked with my local Chrysler dealer parts department earlier today and the sockets are available separately so I'll try replacing them. They unplug easily off the wiring harness without having to cut any wires.
Socket, Rear Tail, Stop, Turn – 6802 4308AA - $9.28 each
You mentioned that you could not find where the sockets were a separate item. Maybe because Chrysler knows this is a common problem they now make them available separate from the assembly. The original sockets lasted 50k miles. If the new ones last that long, it was a worth while investment.
PTDIY Follow up – Interesting, if it's a common problem it hasn't been reported to us nor have any TSB's been issued by Chrysler. The sockets should last the lifetime of the vehicle unless they're defective or there's an underling issue which is causing them to burn up. I might consider one socket to be defective, but it would seem unlikely that both are faulty and failed at the same. That said, it might be possible that one began to fail and the resulting trapped heat and proximity to the second socket caused it to fail. Unfortunately, mere speculation is not very helpful in resolving these issues. Keep an eye on them and please let us know how you make out with these over time. The IPB PDF file that I sent you is the parts replacement catalog your local Chrysler dealer would use to order spare parts for your vehicle. It's possible that they added the sockets to the catalog at a later date. I subsequently cross-checked the P/N with the 07 and 08 model year IPB catalogs and it is listed there.
1902. I have a 2004 PT with automatic transmission. I need to know where the Safety Neutral Switch is located. I can't seem to find it. Thanks. – Carl, from USA.
PT owners with the 41TE auto transaxle occasionally mix up a few features which sound similar.
The Brake Transmission Shifter/Ignition Interlock (BTSI) feature is cable/solenoid operated, and prevents the transmission gear shifter from being moved out of PARK without a driver in place.
The Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) communicates shift lever position (SLP) to the PCM/TCM as a combination of open and closed switches. Each shift lever position has an assigned combination of switch states (open/closed) that the PCM/TCM receives from four sense circuits. The PCM/TCM interprets this information and determines the appropriate transaxle gear position and shift schedule. The TRS is mounted to the top of the valve body inside the transaxle and can only be serviced by removing the valve body.
Additional information is available through the Pit area on the site.
1903. I have a 2003 PT GT. I replaced the OE plugs with Champion Iridium plugs and the OE wires with Mopar Performance wires, now the engine is knocking? What would cause this? – Juan, from Mexico.
We've had owners report successfully using the Champion and NGK Iridium plugs with the Turbo PT. If you're using regular gasoline try using a higher octane. The knock sensor should allow the ignition timing to advance more, resulting in better performance and better MPG. If that doesn't resolve the issue you can try experimenting with the plug gap. Or switch them out with standard OE Champion RE14MCC4 plugs to rule out an issue with the iridium plugs. Champion recommends gapping the RE14MCC4 plugs at .048 - .053" however some owners have reported that excessive rough idle issues have been reduced by gapping them at .042" and replacing the OE wires with better quality wires, which you have already done. We do not recommend using the Champion DP plugs with the PT Turbo. Some owners have complained of spark knock (ping) using the DP plugs.
1904. I have a 2003 LE PT with 125k miles. I replaced multifunction switch to resolve a fog lamp switch failure and also replaced some burned out cluster illumination bulbs. Now the hazard and turn signals will not work. The high beams work, but indicator on instrument cluster does not. All other indicators seem to work. All lights are functioning properly. I have the multifunction switch disconnected and have performed continuity checks and everything checks out. Upon visual inspection, it appears the multifunction switch connector (gray) is cracked and possibly malfunctioning. What are my chances of locating a replacement connector? Can you give me detailed steps to replace this connector myself? – Randy, from Georgia.
Your description of the issue "hazard and turn signals will not work" suggests that you may have overlooked removing the combo hazard/turn signal flasher relay from the old multifunction switch and installed it on the new multifunction switch prior to installation. Please confirm that you have or have not followed the procedure outlined in the Pit area.
Owner follow up - Thanks for your rapid reply. Yes, indeed, I did install and try the old flasher first. Then, thinking it was a bad flasher relay, bought a new unit from the dealer and tried it. Also, the high-beam indicator light does not illuminate after replacing two bulbs in the cluster. That's what led me to conclude I have some other problem and that's when I discovered the cracked connector.
PYDIY follow up - A missing and or failed combo flasher is the most common cause in this scenario however if it's been ruled out and you replaced the multifunction switch and it too checks out ok, the cracked connector as you suggested may be the issue. That said, the OE 2003 model year IPB catalog does not show the 20 way gray connector as being available as a separate part. In many instances the connectors are sold as part of the vehicles' various wiring harnesses. The IPB catalog does provide information on wiring repair kits however they may or may not be applicable for this connector, which I'm including. What I would suggest is that you check with your local dealer parts department to confirm what I've mentioned and what alternatives may be available to you. If they confirm and suggest the purchase of a harness you'll have to weigh the cost of the harness, many of which are expensive. If it's prohibitive you might consider checking with a few local salvage yards for a connector and or harness.
The issue with the high beam indicator may or may not be related to your other issue. I've reviewed and included the wiring schematics and diagnostic which suggest to me that there's a good possibility that the two issues are related and once you resolve the other issue this one will no longer exist. Please review the attached materials (four PDF files) and the wiring intro in the Pit area which provides wiring repair information.
1905. I have a 2001 PT and would like to know where the TCM is located? – Raul, from USA.
During early model years the PCM and TCM were separate modules. The TCM was located behind the left fender and fastened to the left frame rail forward of the suspension. It mounts on a bracket that is fastened to the rail. The PCM attaches to a bracket welded on the dash panel near (driver side) the PDC.
In late 2003, early 2004 Chrysler began using a Next Generation Controller (NGC) on the 2.0L/2.4L PT's, which allowed them to combine the Powertrain Control Module and Transmission Control Module into a single control module referred to as the PCM.
1906. I have a 08 PT Basic Edition with 30k miles. The brake lights keep exploding inside the lens. This is the 4th time I've changed them. I have cleaned the sockets, sealed the area below to make sure water does not splash up. I'm using the OE 3157 bulbs. It's not safe to drive, can you help? – Ron, from Illinois.
During the early (model) years we received a handful of reports from owners regarding the frequent burn out rate of tail and brake lamps however yours is the first report we've received regarding a later model year PT.
With regard to the early model year PT's, there were a number of instances with the lamps created when owners decided to replace OE lamps with higher rated aftermarket lamps. In addition there were also instances where the lamp unit was not properly sealed, moisture entered the unit and the on-hot/off-cold environment inside the unit created condensation and eventual corrosion inside the sockets. Occasionally, rain water would also enter some poorly sealed units and cause the same issues.
There were a couple of different fixes involved in helping resolve the issue.
1. Use the OE recommended lamp only.
2. Make sure the seal between the translucent cover and lamp unit is in good shape.
3. Tighten the cover to the unit securely and check the integrity of the seal.
4. If the sockets are already corroded replace them. See the attached IPB for the P/N's.
5. If all else fails, consider replacing the covers and lamps units, however first visit your local dealer and have them evaluate the units to determine if there's a repairable solution.
Owner follow up –Thanks. I took the lens out and found that both lens had a burn hole just above the bulb, which let moisture drop directly on the bulbs. I bought this PT used with only a few thousand miles on it from a big Chrysler dealer and it's been fine for 2 years. As far as I know there has only been 3 watt bulbs put in these sockets. I replaced both lens with OEM lens, and new OE 3157 bake lights. Should I show the old lens to the dealer, even if it out of warranty?
PT DIY follow up - I'm happy to hear that you figured it out. The only instance that issue has been reported before was when the vehicle was stuck in traffic and brake pedal was depressed for an extended period. It became so hot inside the lamp unit the bulb melted a hole in the cover. You may want to show them to the dealer, but I wouldn't expect much. Under normal conditions the bulbs should last a good while. I believe I replaced mine once in the 8 years we owned our 01 PT.
1907. We have a 02 TE PT with 115,358 miles. Once the engine heats up and you cut it off it won't start back up until it cools down. We have replaced the timing belt and aligned the timing marks per instructions in auto manual, replaced the water pump, radiator cap [17lbs], thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze mixture and bled off air at the fill tube. Now the last time we cut the car off it acts as though it wants to start but will not? We have fuel and spark at the plugs, but no start. Prior to the work we had a water leak and cooling system was overheating. - Milt, from Georgia.
I'm afraid there's nothing here that would suggest a specific cause. We do have a "No Start" issues Powertrain Diagnostic in the Pit area you can review. This guide is what the dealer would use to troubleshoot the issue. Something that you may want to check is for adequate compression. If the vehicle has spark and fuel that may be the missing ingredient. I'm suggesting this because you mentioned previous overheating and coolant loss. It doesn't take much to warp or crack the aluminum heads. Other PT owners have reported similar start issues which were eventually traced back to overheating problems.
1908. Allan, from the UK had this suggestion. The engine management light kept coming on for no apparent reason on my 2002 PT CRD 2.2 Diesel. Finally the penny dropped that something was getting wet in bad weather or deep puddles. It turned out to be the many wires and connecting plugs on the near side front wing behind the wing liner. The engine management computer is located on the inner wing and was getting a false signal. I sealed the inspection hatch for the headlamp with silicone and it has not done it again. I hope this may be of help to any other diesel owners.
1909. Mitch, from the US had this suggestion. I repaired a water leak by inserting springs into the weep holes in the bottom of the door weather strip. It was only a problem for one door where the door was pinching the weather strip holes shut when the door closed so it was not a visible problem.
1910. I have a 05 PT GT Convertible with 40k miles. The dealer installed a new battery and did a tune up. On the way home from dealership I was not able to operate either power window on the passenger side. I only have one switch for the windows, which is on the dash and has no child lock in between the switches. The driver side windows work fine. I took the car back to the dealer and they did not know how to fix it. Any help you could offer would be very much appreciated! – Richard, from California.
Sorry to hear about the issue with your windows. We have received a number of complaints from owners with regard to the power windows in their convertibles, the majority of which have been tied to the Smart Glass Module functionality, which only the convertibles utilize. Almost all owner reports have one thing in common; the battery. They usually report that the issue coincides with a dead battery and or replacing a battery.
I have attached two PDF's for you to review. One describes the power window system, and the second contains the wiring diagrams for the convertible (PT-27) and sedan (PT-44).
Chrysler issued a TSB for this problem on some 05 convertibles.
Before you begin tearing into things, I would like to suggest that the odds are rather unlikely that this issue just happened to occur after your dealer performed work on your PT, namely replacing the battery. Frankly, I'm baffled by their inability to resolve this for you, especially since it is likely they created it.
Please review what I have provided, including the Q&A links below, which describe which fuses to check in the PDC under the hood and interior fuse box. Check these fuses. If they're ok review the other Q&A's and suggested advice. If this doesn't help note that the resolution within the TSB will require dealer intervention to flash the Smart Module.
1. Issues with Smart Glass Window Functions
2. Issues with Smart Glass Window Functions
3. Issues with Smart Glass Window Functions
4. Issues with Smart Glass Window Functions
Owner follow up – Thank you so very much for the great info. I was able to fix the power window problem on my 05 convertible GT by just opening both doors, unhooking the negative lead to the battery and waiting 30 minutes. I hooked it back up and everything works like it should! Thank you.
PTDIY follow up - Excellent, looks like draining the SGM's and disconnecting the battery without reprogramming the SGM's with a DRB scan tool was effective in this situation. Glad to hear it worked out for you without any further dealer intervention.
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