The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.
Part Seventy Two Q&A 1776 - 1800
1776. We have a 2001 LE PT with 127k miles. The car overheated, then died and would not start again. We replaced the radiator, thermostat, battery and connectors. It turns over, but just won't start. Could it be the timing belt? – Erin, from Texas.
If you suspect that the timing belt is broken, check engine compression, before you attempt repair. Zero compression is a good indication that the belt is broken. An OE timing belt guide is available in the Pit area if you require assistance.
Follow up from owner – Engine has no compression.
1777. We have a 2001 LE PT with 135k miles and manual transaxle. While changing gears the stick shift would not go into gear. I had to pull over and force it into 3rd gear just to get home. I was told the slave cylinder needs to be fixed. How do you replace slave cylinder and bleed it the right way? – Nicole, from Maryland.
Replacement slave cylinder assemblies come pre-filled with fluid. No fluid service or system bleeding should be required, unless the hydraulic system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has ingested air into the hydraulic circuit. If you don't own an OE service manual the OE slave cylinder replacement and bleeding procedures are available through the Pit area on the site.
1778. I have a 2003 LE PT with 50k miles. The HVAC system Mode switch will not stay in the defrost position. I removed the center dash panel and discovered that the control cable is bent preventing the selector switch from staying in the defrost position. Will I have to replace the entire cable? Local parts stores do not seem to carry it, is this on OEM part? Thanks. – Mike, from Oklahoma.
Just about every component in the HVAC system is OE, including the cables. I believe the CABLE, Mode Air Conditioning P/N is 4885 391AB, but have your local DC parts department verify.
1779. I have a 2003 TE PT with 73k miles. During a yearly NYS required inspection the mechanic failed my PT for defective vertical control arm bushings on both sides. He indicated it was common with PT Cruisers. I decided to DIY, and during the installation I had trouble removing the bolt that holds the rear vertical bushing in place. The manual did not give any specific instructions. After stripping the nut holding the bolt on one side, I figured that there had to be access to lubricate the nut under the floor board. After attempting to remove the bolt over the course of a day, I discovered there was a 4" round indentation on the floor board on both the driver and passenger side of the car. Drilling thru the center, I saw the rusty bolt and nut hidden inside the frame channel. I was able the get the bolt out by repetitively lubricating and turning/counter turning the nut for about 1-1/2 hour. The stripped nut on the other side was impossible to remove. I had to cut the bolt off underneath the car and fish out the rest of it. Please pass this along to anyone who asks about replacing the vertical control arm bushing. If they don't know about cutting into the floor board and using lubricant to free up the bolt and nut, they will surely have a very time consuming job ahead of them. It took me about three day to complete the job. – Melville, from New York.
We have received a handful of reports from other owners regarding faulty and or damaged OE control arm bushings, which appear to be a more common occurence even with early mileage Cruisers. Some owners have reported that their dealers wanted to replace the lower control arm assembly instead of simply replacing the bushing, however better aftermarket polyurethane bushing, such as the bushing's manufactured by Energy Suspension, are available at a much lower cost. Like you, a number of owners have replaced them on their own however none have mentioned the difficulties you encountered with the repair. Thank you for the feedback.
1780. I am glad I found a site like this. Last week I purchased a 2006 PT in mint condition. The shop said it was a base model, but for some reason I can't find the exact category it falls into. It has a spoiler and 16 inch alloy wheels, and has the panel (EVIC) that tells you if the door is open or the temp outside. – Forum poster, from USA.
PT Cruiser (base)
PT Cruiser Touring
PT Cruiser Limited
PT Cruiser GT
"Touring Edition” bright badge on liftgate (left side)
“Limited Edition” bright badge on liftgate (left side)
“GT” bright badge on liftgate (left side)
If you don't have any of these badges, you most likely do have the base edition. You can easily verify this through the dealership.
15” bolt-on wheel covers with bright lug nut caps are standard on the Base and Touring.
16” x 6”, 9-spoke, silver-painted cast-aluminum wheels are standard on Limited.
16” x 6”, 9-spoke chrome-clad cast-aluminum wheels are optional on the Limited.
17” x 6”, 15-spoke, chrome-clad cast-aluminum wheels are standard on the GT Turbo.
1781. I have a 2007 BE PT with an intermittent "no fuse" condition. I've read all there was including the TSB in the Pit area. I re-set the fuse and it was OK, but when I touch or slightly move the fuse box the “no fuse” indicator will flash or flicker like a short or loose terminal. When the “no fuse” light is active I have no power to the #20 15 amp fuse the "IOD Feed Radio" fuse. When checking with a test light, I have no power on either side of fuse. I suspect a loose wire/terminal or possible short. The PT is under warranty, but we're planning a Thanksgiving trip this weekend and I don't want to take the car into shop unless I have too. If I could find out which wire circuit the #20- 15 amp fuse is on maybe I can check or trace it into the back of junction block. If you have a wiring diagram that shows the underside of the fuse block that would be great. – Dave, from the USA.
The totally integrated power module is a non-serviceable component therefore no wiring schematics of the TIPM exist in the service manuals. Once diagnosed as faulty, they are replaced along with the engine compartment wiring harness. I have attached a PDF file showing the circuit in question however I would suggest that you have it resolved under warranty upon your return if it is isolated to OE radio functionality only (and you're not driving too far).
1782. I have a 2004 TE PT (LO) with 42k miles. After sitting overnight or for some hours my PT is hard to start. If I turn on the ignition and wait for a couple of seconds it starts normally. This tells me that I'm gradually losing fuel pressure when the engine is off. What is/are the likely culprit(s) and where do I look for the pressure leak? – Robert, from North Carolina.
The fuel system provides fuel pressure by an in-tank pump module. The PCM controls the operation of the fuel system by providing battery voltage to the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay. The PCM requires only three inputs and a good ground to operate the fuel pump relay. The three inputs are:
Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
The fuel system uses a nonadjustable pressure regulator that maintains fuel system pressure at approximately 400 ±34 kPa (58 ±5 psi). The fuel pressure regulator contains a diaphragm, calibrated spring and a fuel return valve. The spring pushes down on the diaphragm and closes off the fuel return port. System fuel pressure reflects the amount of fuel pressure required to open the return port. The pressure regulator is a mechanical device that is NOT controlled by the PCM or engine vacuum.
The fuel pump module contains the following components:
Electric fuel pump
Fuel pump reservoir
Fuel pressure regulator
Fuel gauge sending unit
Fuel supply line connection
The fuel level sensor and the pressure regulator are the only serviceable items. If the fuel pump or electrical wiring harness requires service, replace the fuel pump module.
The pump draws fuel through a strainer and pushes it through the motor to the outlet. The pump contains one check valve. The check valve, in the pump outlet, maintains pump pressure during engine off conditions. The fuel pump relay provides voltage to the fuel pump.
The fuel pump has a maximum deadheaded pressure output of approximately 880 kPa (130 psi). The regulator adjusts fuel system pressure to approximately 400 ±34 kPa (58 ±5 psi).
Further troubleshooting by your dealer will be required to determine if there's a leak somewhere within the fuel system or you have a failing part, possibly the check valve in the fuel pump module.
1783. I have a 2001 LE PT with 87k miles. The speedometer suddenly started reading very high (reads 70MPH when actually traveling 40MPH). It moves smoothly, but reads about twice as fast as one is actually going throughout the MPH range. - Brent, from Kansas.
New tires, wheels and PCM programming (pinion factor setting) can affect speedometer reading. If this does not apply, it could be gauge (instrument cluster will need to be replaced – see test below), vehicle speed sensors, or possibly a tone wheel. (On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer C/V joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to determine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.) Further troubleshooting will be required to isolate the issue.
Perform the Instrument Cluster Self Test.
A. Turn the ignition off.
B. Press and hold the Trip Reset button.
C. Turn the ignition on.
D. Observe the gauges in question while the Instrument Cluster performs the Self Test.
E. The gauges should position at the following calibration points:
Speedometer: 20mph, 55mph, 75mph and 120mph
Tachometer: 2000rpm and 6000rpm
If the gauges calibrate correctly the instrument cluster is probably ok.
1784. We have a 2001 TE PT with 146.7k miles. The following happened while on our way to California for the weekend. The power steering worked fine. We pulled off the interstate to get gas and found that if sitting still at idle and turning the steering wheel there was no power assist. If you touch the accelerator just a little there is power assist, even if not moving. The fluid level is full, no leaks, belt is in good shape and there are no unusual noises. After 900 miles it continues to have no power assist when not moving and the engine at idle. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks. – Philip, from Arizona.
A stiff, hard to turn, surge, momentary increase in effort when turning can be caused by the following:
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. Low power steering fluid level.
3. Loose power steering pump drive belt.
4. Lack of lubrication in control arm ball joints.
5. Low power steering pump pressure.
6. High internal leak in power steering gear.
Have the dealer inspect it. If nothing obvious stands out they may conduct a Power Steering Flow and Pressure Test. It will provide the flow rate of the power steering pump along with the maximum relief pressure. The test is performed any time a power steering system problem is present to determine if the power steering pump or power steering gear is not functioning properly.
1785. We purchase a used 2004 TE GT (HO) with 32k miles from a local dealership. Two months after I had the car, there was a loud noise coming from the front end. I took it back to the dealer and they told me it was the front bearings on the left side. I obtained a second opinion and was told both sides were going out. I commissioned the work to be done. Shortly after this issue was fixed, my husband noticed the "Trac Off" and "ABS" light were on...they will not go off. Any ideas? – Catherine, from California.
There's not much here to work with, but a possibility exists that it is related to the replacement of the hub bearings. The wheel bearing and hub are pressed into the steering knuckle. The Mark 20e ABS system uses two-wire wheel speed sensors which convert wheel speed into a digital signal. At each wheel of the vehicle there is one wheel speed sensor and one tone wheel. The front wheel speed sensors are attached to bosses in the steering knuckles. The tone wheel is an integral part of the outboard constant velocity joint located in the front axle shaft. It's possible that they damaged or incorrectly reinstalled a speed sensor or tone wheel during the repair. Failure to install speed sensor cables properly can result in contact with moving parts or an over extension of cables causing an open circuit. The cables must be installed, routed, and clipped properly. Or, it could simply be a coincidence. If the lamps are lit you have faults which the dealer can troubleshoot with their DRB III scan tool.
1786. I have a 2007 BE PT with 3k miles. I was able to install an additional power outlet in the back compartment since the plug was readily available next to the jack, inside the panel. I wanted to install another one inside the middle console. There is an aperture for it, but no plug. How can I install the power outlet? – Ramon, from Georgia.
The outlets include tethered caps, labeled with a key symbol or battery symbol, indicating power source. All outlets are protected by a single 20 amp fuse.
The standard outlet in the front of the center floor console is a conventional cigar lighter outlet. It will accept a cigar lighter unit, which is part of the optional Smokers Package. As a child safety precaution, this outlet is powered by the ignition switch, only when the switch is in the ON or ACCESSORY positions.
There are two optional power outlets. One is in the center console/armrest lower storage bin and is powered directly by the battery, regardless of the ignition switch position.
The second is in the right rear cargo area and powered directly by the battery (as an option, fuse #11 in the Integrated Power Module (IPM), may be repositioned to allow power to come from the ignition switch only when in the ON or ACCESSORY positions).
Neither of the optional power outlets will accept a cigar lighter unit. They are intended only for accessory usage.
It's not uncommon to discover missing wiring for uninstalled optional OE equipment in most vehicles. Unfortunately, we don't have a 2007 service manual therefore I can't suggest a tie in point or verify that that the information below applies to the 2007. The 2006 SM identifies the Center Console Power Outlet circuit as battery fed through the IPM, fuse #11, 15 amp. (A discrepancy I notice right off is that the 2007 owners manual indicates it's a 20 amp circuit.) The connector to the outlet on the 2006 consists of a 16 gauge Red/White hot wire and Black ground. Try to identify the wiring in the center console area on your PT. Parts can be ordered through any DC dealer parts department.
1787. I have a 2005 LE PT with 35.5k miles. While getting the PT ready for a “state required vehicle inspection” at local tire shop they reported that the front hub bearings have some play and should be replaced soon, and replacement may be covered under warranty. The dealer service manager acted as if I was a crazy lunatic. "Never heard of PT front hub bearings having "play" he argued, "did they pass it for state inspection" he barked. I explained that I had a printout of 55 messages of other people with similar experience. I left the PT, and the next morning the service manager called to verify "did I understand that I would be required to pay 1/2 hour labor to check car" if as they expected to find nothing. Yes I did. Later he called to tell me "both hub bearings will be replaced under warranty". – Raymond, from Rhode Island.
Generally, hub bearing wear takes place in higher mileage vehicles. It's not unheard of but uncommon in low mileage vehicles. It's even more unusual for two to fail at the same time. (We have only received a handful of complaints during the last seven model years.) You were fortunate that it occurred while your vehicle was still within the basic warranty period. There's a diagnostic in the Pit area (hub bearing guide) you can use to periodically check for failing bearing.
1788. We have a 2006 TE PT with 10k miles. The two lower rear brake lights do not work. The center high brake light works ok. The under hood fuses are ok, but I cannot find the interior fuse box. – Robert, from New Zealand.
Fuse #3 (10amp) in the Totally Integrated Power Module under the hood controls the center high and lower left/right brake lights. There is no interior fuse box starting with the 2006 model year; all fuses are now in the new Totally Integrated Power Module. Given that the center high is functional, it is not a fuse issue. Assuming that both bulbs are ok, I would look at the Totally Integrated Power Module stop lamp control circuit. You've done everything that you can, the vehicle is under warranty; have the dealer take care of it.
Follow up from owner - Thanks for your help, the dealer fixed it. Apparently there is an electronic over-current device that feeds the rear brake lights and this needed to be reset. The over current was most likely caused when the same dealer fitted a trailer electrical connector to power the trailer lights and tapped into the rear brake light circuit. There was no fault on the trailer, but the extra current load created by the trailer stop lamp caused the circuit to trip. At what level will this current/wattage device trip/activate at? Thanks again for your assistance.
PTDIY follow up – I'm happy to hear they figured it out. There's no mention of an electronic over-current device in the service manual. I'm sure it's part of the new Totally Integrated Power Module which controls the brake circuit in the 2006 and later model year PT's. (It sounds like a circuit breaker if it can be reset.) Prior model years utilized a simple brake circuit and fuse for protection. There have been issues with trailer hook ups for all model years, the majority of which have been DIY installations. Had you mentioned the trailer hitch under modifications, I would have suggested that you start there.
1789. We have a 2002 BE PT with 93k miles. I don't know how to replace the light bulb on the automatic shift console (The light indicates if you are in drive or neutral)? – Jeff, from Wisconsin.
The trans range indicator illumination lamp can be accessed and replaced by removing the floor console. There's a guide in the Pit area if you require further assistance.
1790. I have a 2004 GT Turbo (HO) with 69k miles. Where do I manually check the oil pressure on a 2.4L Turbo engine, I've had an intermittent oil pressure warning light at idle, with the engine hot. – Bill, from Indiana.
Oil pressure is checked at the oil pressure switch, located on the right rear side of the engine block, using Special Tool C-3292 Gauge with 8406 adaptor fitting. If you require further assistance please review a service guide or our OE guide in the Pit area.
1791. I have a 2001 LE PT with 63k miles. The car surges and the engine light comes on. The trouble code is P0340. Where is cam sensor located? – Gregory, from Georgia.
A DTC indicates that the Powertrain Control Module has recognized an abnormal condition in the system. DTC's are the results of a system or circuit failure, but do not directly identify the failed component or components. Review other possibilities for this code here.
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head near the PCV valve. You'll find a guide in the Pit area if you need one.
1792. I have a 2002 LE PT with 45k miles. The horn and display on the radio intermittently cut out. I hit a bump in the road and the radio display and horn don't work. Hit a bump again and they start working again. But a bump in the road will not always cause the problem or fix it. I can hit several bumps in a row and not experience the behavior. When the display on my radio goes out, my horn no longer works. When the display comes back on, the horn works again. I've checked all the fuses, even going so far as to replace them. Beyond that, I don't know where to start troubleshooting. – Jimmy, from Texas.
The features are fed by different fuses, but what is common to both is that they both pass through the steering column. The next time the issue occurs try readjusting the steering wheel using the tilt mechanism and jiggling the wires while testing the horn or display. You may have a pinched wire which is intermittently shorting out. Wiring diagrams are available through the Pit area on the site if you need them.
Owner follow up - The problem was resolved by adjusting the tilt. Thank you very much.
1793. I have a 2001 LE PT (2.0L) with 58k miles. From cold start the engine runs for about 4 minutes with no problems then starts to lose power and will then cut out and not start again until cold. Or if I switch ignition to run 3 or 4 times it will try to start, but very rough. I'm pulling fault code P0320 and P0645. Cheers – Ronnie, from Great Britain.
We haven't seen a PT with these DTC's before. They may be more related to the 2.0L engine than the domestic 2.4L. Your dealer will have to assist with diagnostics and repair. Here's what we have in our domestic PT service and diagnostic manuals.
P0320 - No Crank Reference Signal at PCM - No reference signal (crankshaft position sensor) detected during engine cranking. No further information available as to possible causes.
P0645 - A/C Clutch Relay Circuit - An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C clutch relay control circuit.
A/C Clutch Relay Operation
(A17) Fused Ignition Switch Output Circuit
A/C Clutch Relay Resistance
(C28) A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Open
(C28) A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Short To Ground
1794. I have a 2006 BE PT with 36.8k miles. My rear window wiper stopped working. The fuses are ok and it still dispenses window washing fluid. The front wipers still work. – Marty, from New York.
The pump operates independently of the wiper motors and provides washer fluid to both the front and rear washers. It could be a faulty motor, switch or issue with the circuit. There's a diagnostic in the Pit area however I suggest you have your dealer handle the repair.
1795. I have a 2001 LE PT with 81.5k miles. I was changing a flat tire, and did not realize my strength. When I was tried to remove the spare by turning the spare tire drive nut, I turned it a little too hard and broke the swivel hook that holds the stowage basket. Is there anywhere I can by a replacement? My car looks real tacky holding the stowage basket with bungee cord. – Kimberly, from Arkansas.
OE parts are available through the parts department at your local dealership. Have the tech verify the P/N before placing your order: 5027 000AA HOOK, Spare Tire Attach.
1796. I have a 2002 BE PT with 108k miles. Approximately two weeks ago I went to start the car & the alarm/keyless entry did not respond. I thought the battery in the remote died, but I was wrong. I ran my errand, came home and noticed the airbag light on, the power windows stopped working and the heater stopped working. The next morning everything was back to normal. Two days ago same thing happens. Thought it was my alarm, took it to alarm installer who pointed out severely corroded battery terminals & cabling, meter on battery indicated battery replacement needed. Replaced battery, left alarm installer, car overheats even though coolant is full. I took it back to the alarm installer who said cooling fan & circuit were not working. I dropped the car off at dealership the next day and they said the PCM and cooling fan had to be replaced ($1600). I got that done and everything was ok until this morning. As I pulled into parking lot at work, airbag light came on again, no power to alarm, power windows and heater won't work. I dropped the PT off at the dealer again. I'm about to make my last payment on this car and can't afford to buy a new car. It's turning out to be a money pit, and the dealer has already come up with a list of other mechanical issues that I can't afford to fix right now. – Maddy, from Connecticut.
Unfortunately, without access to the vehicle and or a DTC (assuming that you ran the self tests) to provide a starting point there's little here to suggest a cause outside of the battery which has already been addressed. These components are on different circuits therefore you might try resetting the IOD fuse which feeds a number of sub circuits within the vehicle. See Tech Library, Wiring subsection and review ALL IOD fuse information. We don't know how well you have maintained the vehicle according the OE service schedule, but at 108k miles you can expect normal wear and tear on parts to take their toll. It becomes a balance between how much to invest into repairs versus the value of the vehicle.
Follow up from owner – I got the car back from the dealership by the end of the day. It turns out the ignition wire and termination points for it in one of the wire harnesses had burnt out. They bypassed those termination points completely and spliced in an entirely new section of wire. It seems to be working ok now. Total cost for this visit was $217, plus what I've already spent.
1797. I have a 2003 PT, but the light in the cargo area doesn't appear to work. Is there a special way of turning it on or how can I find out if it is broken? Thanks. – Graeme, from USA.
If the interior dome lamp lights up when you open any door, but the rear cargo lamp does not, check fuse #13 (10 amp) in the interior fuse box. It feeds the rear cargo lamp. If the fuse is ok, check the lamp, which can be accessed through the jack storage door once the jack is removed. If the lamp is bad replace it (T904). If the lamp appears ok, check for voltage prior to and at the socket. If you only have voltage prior to the socket, check the condition of the socket. If the socket is bad replace it, if it’s ok additional troubleshooting of the circuit will be required.
Follow up from owner - I ran through your suggestions from the start and everything checked out okay but still no light. I removed the socket assembly disassembled and reassembled, then the bulb decided to start working. This is the first time its worked in 4 years. Thank you very much.
1798. I have a 2002 PT. Does anyone know what the P/N is for that little removable piece in the wheel well that allows access to the headlight for changing the bulb? A lot of snow and junk are getting tossed up into the engine compartment with that piece missing. Local dealers aren't much help, if they can't get it in their shop to do the work they don't have time for you. Thanks! – KbOnly, forum poster.
The part you need is the headlamp access cover in the splash shield. Verify the P/N's for the access covers with your local DC dealer parts department.
5027 930AA Front Fender Wheelhouse Splash Access, Right
5027 931AA Front Fender Wheelhouse Splash Access, Left
See Tech Library, Lamps subsection for more information.
1799. I have a 2001 TE PT with 103k miles. Two days after I got my PT back from the mechanic (installed a new racing clutch, flywheel and shifter cables) the power steering gave out on me. I looked in the reservoir to check the fluid level and the fluid was black. I removed fluid with a siphon and found the screen inside was covered with black gunk. Is there any way to clean the screen and also what could be causing this black build up and could this be the reason for my power steering to stop working? – Tim, from Pennsylvania.
The power steering system uses Mopar ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid (MS-9602). It's about $8 a quart at your DC dealer.
When new, Mopar ATF+4 MS-9602 is red in color. It's dyed red so it can be identified from other fluids used in the vehicle such as engine oil or antifreeze. The red color is not permanent and is not an indicator of fluid condition. Over it begins to darken in color and may eventually become brown. This is normal. It also has a unique odor that may change with age. Consequently, odor and color cannot be used to indicate the fluid condition or the need for a fluid change.
The black gunk may be residue clogging the system. If it's on the screen it's probably inside the system. Given the failure issues encountered by other owners with power steering system components, primarily with early model year PT's, have it checked by your local dealer. Although there are inspection intervals for the system, there are no scheduled service changes for the fluid. With 103k miles, and the issue at hand, now would be a good time to replace it. The reservoir, pump and bracket are one unit. Your dealer will have to determine what can be cleaned and or will require replacement.
1800. I have a 2002 PT. The alarm started going off for no reason. Even when I disconnect the battery overnight, after about 10 minutes of running the alarm will go off while I am driving, with lights flashing and door locks cycling on/off. The dealer claims there is no way to permanently disconnect the alarm system. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. - TBP, forum poster.
The VTSS (Vehicle Theft Security System) and RKE (Remote keyless Entry) systems work in conjunction with each other through the RKE Module. (The RKE module arms/disarms the VTSS and operates the remote power door lock system.) A number of faulty RKE Modules have been replaced. One symptom of a failing module is erratic power door local behavior, such as you describe as “door locks cycling”. The dealer can test the RKE module and determine whether it's functioning correctly.
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