The following is a compilation of Q&A's submitted by enthusiasts and answered by Ed.
Part Fifty Seven Q&A 1401 - 1425
1401. I have a 2006 LE PT with auto transaxle and 269 miles. The steering wheel on my PT doesn't lock. The owner's manual has instructions on how to lock the wheel, but it also says "(IF EQUIPPED)" on the title. Do I have a problem, or not? Thank you. Horatio, from California.
The steering wheel lock mechanism in the column (automatic transmission vehicles), was eliminated in July 2002 however the change still complies with NHTSA requirements. The mid year change affected some 02 models, and all 2003-2006 domestic PT's. Additional model year changes are available through the Pit area on the site.
1402. We have a 2004 TE PT with 8k miles. Yesterday the MIL came on while driving to work. I stopped to see the local dealer and the service advertiser looked over the vehicle. He said there was a fault code, but that everything was ok and the MIL would turn off in the next few driving cycles. I felt foolish asking, but what is a driving cycle? Janet, from Nebraska.
Under the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) II system a drive cycle consists of starting a cold engine and running it until it reaches normal operating temperature. The next drive cycle doesn't begin until the engine has been shut off, allowed to cool back down and is restarted again.
1403. We have a 2002 TE PT with 78k miles. About two weeks ago the MIL light popped. I ran the self tests and discovered a P0420 Fault code. My wife called the dealer and made an appointment to have it checked out. The dealer replaced one of the 02 sensors, which seemed to resolve the problem for a little over a week, than the MIL indicator popped on again, with the same P0420 Fault code. We are reluctant to revisit the dealer ($$) again. Thank you for any assistance that you can provide. -Tim & Joann, from North Dakota.
This is our second P0420 DTC issue this week. There are a few conditions that can cause this fault. Based upon what you've mentioned, if the replacement O2 sensor happened to be the (rear) sensor behind the catalytic converter the first thing I would check is the front 02 sensor. A new rear O2 sensor along with an aging front O2 sensor can cause the DTC to set.
If the dealer didn't replace the rear 02 sensor during the previous repair visually inspect the catalytic converter for damage, check for exhaust leaks and the mechanical condition of the engine.
Follow up from owner We checked with the dealer and they did replace the rear 02 sensor. I replaced the older front O2 sensor using the procedure in the Pit area, which resolved the issue and saved me some $$. Thanks.
1404. We have a 2001 DC PT with 30k miles. After locking the car and going inside tonight, I later looked outside and noticed that the dome light was still on. When I went back out to the car, I heard an odd and disturbing series of clicking and grinding sounds, mainly coming from inside the rear left door (and in the dash). The car was seemingly cycling over and over through an apparent process of chaotically unlocking itself automatically for about 10-15 seconds, with about 30-45 second intervals of silence, each time being a symphony of locking and unlocking. The grinding sound during part of this cycle was as if the system was unsuccessfully trying to free a stuck lock (though all posts were up). The dome light was on because the car was being "unlocked". I started the car, drove it around, stopped it, tried several combinations of the keyless entry buttons and manual lock operators, but nothing stopped it. I finally removed the fuse and the lock cycling stopped. I've owned the car over a year and never had this happen or returned to find it unlocked. I should note that the rear left door, where the sound was worst, has never locked properly with the keyless entry system. The post "sticks" and is stiff to operate, and must be locked manually. Thanks. - Bo, from Oregon.
The symptoms that you describe suggest a failing RKE module, but the issue with the sticky pull on the rear left door may be a factor. You will need to determine if there is a problem with the latch mechanical linkage, or the actual door lock latch. You should be able to inspect that area by removing the door trim panel. If everything appears to be ok with the linkage I would consider having the RKE module and door latch tested. This is usually a dealer issue since most owners do not have a scan tool, diagnostic manual or experience to handle this on their own. See the appropriate guides below.
Door Trim Panel
1405. I have a 2001 LE 2.0L export PT. There is no light on the Radio/CD unit and the part below it for 12v outlet, traction control, headlamp lowering feature, rear window wiper and window heater switches. What might be the problem? Hans, from Sweden.
The radio/accessory switch bezel panel lamps are controlled by the instrument cluster. The multifunction dimmer switch controls the intensity of some of the panel lamps. If all of the lamps were out I would suggest checking the switch, however you mentioned that the radio and accessory switch bezel panel lamps were the only ones affected. Under these circumstances your local dealer will have to diagnose the issue. Hopefully, it's not the cluster.
1406. I have a 2004 TE PT with 31k miles. Do you have any opinion on using non-OEM spark plugs or wires? Thanks for your help. Bob, from Kentucky.
We like the Champion Double Platinum plugs on the non-aspirated engine. They are not recommended for use on the PT Turbo. Platinum almost eliminates electrode wear and can double or even triple a spark plug's normal service life. DC recommends changing the OE plugs at 30K, Champion guarantees the double platinum plugs for 5 years and unlimited mileage. They cost more than standard spark plugs, but they reduce the risk of misfire (which helps protect the catalytic converter) and the need for maintenance, which can be somewhat labor intensive on the PT. You can read more about them in the spark plug guide.
The OE wires are not the best quality. Owners have reported using higher performance aftermarket wires, which can help reduce or eliminate some drivability issues (excessive rough idle and ignition misfire) that some owners experience. The OE wires should be replaced at the 60k mile (schedule B) service interval or if the resistance exceeds the OE specifications. You can review the Spark Plug Wire Test Guide, and application specific Spark Plug Wire Manufacturer Guide, in the Pit area.
1407. I have a 2002 BE PT with 12k miles which I purchased from a local DC used car lot last month. The power side mirrors weren't working then. The salesman said that they were ordering a part that was back ordered. I continued to pursue the problem through him and he recently suggested that the problem might just be a fuse because it attacked both mirrors. I checked the owners manual and there is no fuse listed for the side mirrors. Do you know which fuse it might be, if any? Thank you. - Ben, from New York.
The owners guide shows the PDC under the hood, but provides little information about the interior fuse box. Check fuse #18 (10 amp) in the interior fuse box under the steering wheel. It is a 12v circuit. If it's ok, you'll have to do a little troubleshooting. If you don't have a service manual, you'll find a Power Mirror Systems Guide in the Pit area which includes diagnostics for the complete system.
1408. I have a 2001 LE PT with 123k miles, which just started to overheat on the drive home tonight; it's about 8 degrees outside. I noticed that the coolant was low so I filled it up and it's still overheating. There is a bubbling sound underneath the hood like something is draining, but there is no substance leaking onto the ground, could this be my thermostat? Thanks. Matt, from Indianapolis.
There are a variety of issues that can cause overheating, including a thermostat that is partially or completely closed. Based upon your description and the sound, the first thing I would check for is an air lock in the cooling system, which may have introduced when the coolant level was low and or during refill.
The bleeder valve is located below the radiator cap and is used to clear any trapped air in the system. See the OE Cooling System and Thermostat Guides in the Pit area for complete instructions and illustrations if you need them. You may also want to review the Cooling Issue Q&A's in the Tech Library.
1409. I have a 2001 TE PT with 54k miles. I installed a remote starter, which works just fine. I hooked up the remote starter kit keyless entry module to the wires I needed in the drivers side kick panel. I unplugged the wiring cluster and hooked the wires up to remote starter keyless entry module. Instead of hooking the ground to ground, I put the red wire to hot. I smelled something electrical short out near the dash/radio area, so I disconnected the keyless part of the starter kit. I reconnected the wires in the kick panel and tried the power door locks. I tried the switch (and with FOB) on each door and only the driver door lock works. I can still hear what sound like a relay under the dash still work when I lock/unlock the doors from the door switches. Did I short out the RKE module? What did I do? Thanks in advance. Kim, from Iowa.
If all doors, except the driver, fail to lock or unlock the 2005 Body Diagnostic manual lists the following causes:
Door Unlock Relay Output Short To Door Lock Relay Output
RKE Module - Open Door Unlock Relay Output
Door Unlock Relay Output Wire Open
Door Lock Relay Output Wire Open
If you intend to DIY troubleshoot the issue you'll need a body diagnostic manual, which is a separate purchase from the service manual. Most issues in the diagnostic manuals require the use of a DRB scan tool however this test only requires jumper wires and a voltmeter. The noise you hear is probably the RKE module under the dash.
1410. We have a 2002 DC PT with 50k miles. I can't remove the gas cap. Is there a trick to it? It's an OEM Cap. The cap locks, but won't unlock. Thanks. Hudson, from Washington.
This issue hasn't been reported before. No trick to it. The fuel fill cap threads (quarter turn) onto the end of the fuel filler tube. If it won't come off there may be a problem with the cap and or fuel filler tube. If the tube is faulty, we have a guide in the Pit area for replacing it, but your local dealer may have to make a determination as to the exact nature of the problem.
Follow up from owner - We went to an oriental restaurant for lunch today. I asked the owner if he knew anything about gas caps. He did and in 5 minutes we were pumping gas again. Turn the ignition key to the right, then turn the cap (only) counterclockwise and it practically falls out. Thank you for your help.
1411. I have a 2002 DC PT with 51k miles. I just changed spark plugs for the first time. I noticed that the ones in the car from factory were .060 and the label by the radiator says to gap spark plugs at .050. I installed new spark plugs at .060 as the factory had done. Did I do wrong or right? What is your recommendation? Thank you. Dave, from Iowa.
It is normal for the electrodes to wear as the plugs age. This increases the distance between the electrodes which in turn leads to a gradual increase in the firing voltage required to jump the gap. The gap on a standard spark plug grows about 0.00063 to 0.000126 inch for every 1,000 miles of normal driving, which means the firing voltage requirements creep up about 500 volts for every 10,000 to 15,000 miles of driving.
The OE Champion plug gap specifications are .048 - .053" or 1.24 - 1.37mm. in accessing and changing the plugs on the PT. They have the same gap specifications as the OE plugs. Most owners gap at .050. We prefer to use the Champion Double Platinum plugs, which are more durable, provide extended plug life, and reduce the need for maintenance, given the difficulty However, if you experienced excessive rough idle with your last set of plugs we suggest gaping the OE and DP plugs to .042 and consider replacing the OE plug ignition wires.
Excessive gap can cause performance and drivability problems, including hard starting, an engine miss and or hesitation under load, and can shorten the life of the plug (accelerated tip erosion). If it were me I would re-gap them to the correct specs if they are currently gapped at .060. You can review the plug specification, plug installation and aftermarket ignition wire reccomendation guides in the Pit area.
1412. I have a 2001 LE PT with 72k miles. If I press the power lock button, I hear a click noise on the center top dash, but there is no locking. The auto lock also makes only the one noise. Is there an auxiliary relay or fuse for the power locks? Esther, from Virginia.
It could be the multifunction switch or RKE module, but your description strongly points to the RKE module. It controls the power door lock and un-lock functions. The switches only act as input signals to the RKEM. There are no relays, but the clicking sound would indicate that you have power through the circuit. The location of the sound, in the center dash area, is where the RKE module resides. (Under the dash, above the glove box.)
The RKE module is not a DIY repair. We would suggest that have your local DC dealer test the Remote Keyless Entry Module to determine if it is faulty. When replacing a faulty RKE Module, the replacement module must be configured by the dealer with a DRB lll scan tool for proper operation. Additionally, all (FOB) transmitters must be reprogrammed to the new RKE module. You can read about the RKE module here.
Follow up from owner - I have the resolution to my problem. I exchanged my RKE module with the same results. The module still clicked but did not actuate power locks. I again checked the fuses. The 20 amp RKE fuse was good. After removal of fuse several times the locks started working. Lesson learned; clicking does not mean RKE is getting power only logic power. I cleaned the contacts in fuse panel and everything appears to be OK now. Thanks for your help, hopes this helps someone else.
PTDIY Follow up - Glad to hear that you figured it out. This is a good example of why we suggest having the Remote Keyless Entry Module, or other expensive components, tested to verify a failure prior to simply replacing it. The diagnostic process can be difficult under the best of conditions, (when you have physical access to the vehicle), and even more challenging through an email.
1413. I have a 2001 LE PT with 80k miles. No problem - just a question: I have one of the original Chrysler 16x6 chrome rims and a good 205/55R16 Bridgestone tire. Can I replace the spare tire with this set (I'm contemplating having the tire mounted and balanced if it will fit in the spare tire holder)? Perry, from Maryland.
Good idea, but the spare tire carrier is constructed for the smaller OE spare tire. I don't believe that a full size tire would fit in the basket. Most drivers do not care for the smaller spare; I suspect that space and clearance were an issue when DC designed this feature.
1414. We have a 2002 TE PT with 77k miles. The MIL indicator has been popping on and off sporadically for the past month. We've taken the PT to the dealer for servicing 3 times, however each time they attempt to diagnose the issue they can't duplicate the problem and there are no fault codes present. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Tom & April, from Washington.
Most intermittent DTC's are caused by wiring or connector problems. Defects that come and go like this are the most difficult to diagnose; they must be looked for under specific conditions that cause them. The following checks may assist you in identifying a possible intermittent problem:
1. Visually inspect the related harnesses. Look for chafed, pierced, or partially broken wires.
2. Inspect all related connectors; look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
3. Ask the dealer to install a data recorder or co-pilot to help diagnose the issue.
1415. I have a 2004 DC GT turbo (HO) with 39k miles and want to know if I can double my boost with out killing my wallet? Nick, from Texas.
Some Turbo owners have added the Mopar Stage 1 Turbo upgrade kit which boosts hp from 220 to 235 with 260 ft-lbs of torque. The PCM has been calibrated for increased wide-open throttle and part-throttle boost, more aggressive exhaust note during deceleration, improved turbo response, enhanced first-gear boost schedule for a higher performance launch and a boost hold feature during wide-open throttle shifts. The kit costs about $400, plus labor. Check it out at the Mopar web site. DIY instructions are available in the Pit area on the site. For additional suggestions try posting your question in our PT Turbo forum.
1416. I have a 2001 TE PT with 48k miles. No problem, just cannot find the tan/wht wire to the 3rd brake light. Wondering if I have that color wrong? Also, can you tell me the color of the wire to the rear wiper motor? I have removed same years ago and now want to tap into the power for additional rear lights. Would there be any concerns doing that in your opinion? Thanks. - Dave, from Canada.
The 3BL wire is WT/TN = White/Tan
The exterior lighting circuits are rated at 15amps. The RWM utilizes a 20amp circuit. Probably ok for minimal additional lighting.
Rear Wiper Motor
JB Fuse #15, 20amp circuit
The RWM wire is BR/PK = Brown/Pink
Wiring schematics are available through the Pit area if you need them.
1417. I have a 2002 LE PT with 133k miles. The turn indicators and hazard lights are not working. Where is the relay or fuse please? Paul, from USA.
If both the turn signals and hazard flasher are inoperative the potential causes would be:
1. Faulty fuse.
2. Faulty flasher.
3. Faulty contact in switch.
3 Open circuit in feed wire to switch.
5. Open or grounded circuit in wiring to external lamps.
Check the fuses as a precaution, but if both systems are inoperative the fuses are probably not the issue. Constant battery voltage is supplied to the hazard flasher so that it can perform the hazard warning function, and ignition switched battery voltage is supplied for the turn signal function. For the turn signals, power is fed to the multifunction switch from fuse 19 (15amps) in the PDC. The switched power is from fuse 15 (20amps) in the interior fuse box.
It is more likely the combo flasher or multifunction switch. The turn signal flasher and the hazard warning flasher are combined into one unit called a Combination Flasher. The combo-flasher smart relay is located on the back of the multi-function switch and is serviced separately. The combo-flasher controls the flashing of the hazard warning system and the turn signal system. Check the multifunction switch (and flasher). A number of these have failed and been replaced by owners. You'll find a switch diagnostic and replacement guide in the service manual, or Pit area, if you don't have access to one.
1418. I have a 2001 LE PT with 71.5k miles. I recently replaced all 4 wheels brake pads. Shortly thereafter I could feel the ABS engaging (pulsating pedal), while slowly backing out of my driveway. I checked the brakes, and everything is fine. I tried switching off the trac-loc and that stopped the ABS problem. Then I tried switching the trac-loc back on and now it will not come on (the light will not go out). I rapidly accelerated to spin the wheels a bit and the traction lock did not activate so I believe it is switched off. So my two issues are: The trac-loc is deactivated and the ABS light is activated, but the brakes seem to be working fine. The dealer wants the car for the whole day to "diagnose" the problem. Any ideas what I should or could check? Otherwise, the car has been trouble free since we purchased it new. - Michael, from Florida.
While (only) the amber ABS warning indicator is on, the ABS is not functional, but the ability to stop the car using the base brake system should not be affected. There is a diagnostic within the ABS guide, but as part of the procedure a DRB scan tool is used to identify outstanding DTC's within the ABS system. At that point, the dealer would troubleshoot and pinpoint the source of the problem using their chassis diagnostic manual. We have the 2005 chassis diagnostic manual, but without knowing the DTC there's no way to know where the issue resides. The troubleshooting process can become more complex when the issue follows maintenance on the vehicle, which may or may not introduce other variables. You can run the vehicle self tests to help determine if there are any other DTC's, but ABS system DTC's are not identified by these tests. You will have to rely on the dealer diagnostic to determine if there are ABS system faults.
1419. I have a 2001 LE with 55k miles. On long drives the front disk brakes, mostly on the passenger side, seem to engage lightly. Ray, from New Hampshire.
The brake diagnostic in the service manual suggests that brake drag can be caused by the following issues:
1. Contaminated brake fluid.
2. Binding caliper pins or bushings.
3. Misadjusted brake lamp switch.
4. Master cylinder not fully returning.
5. Binding brake pedal.
If it's mostly on one side, I would start by inspecting the caliper assemblies, brake hose (damaged, preventing return of brake fluid), possible loose or worn wheel bearing. If it's happening on more than one wheel, work your way through the diagnostic list. Keep in mind that we do not have expertise in this area and suggest that you have it checked by a pro shop in your area.
1420. I have a 2003 GT (HO), which started to misfire and idle rough. I changed the OE plug gaps to 0.042., which did not help much. I noticed carbon tracing on the outside of one plug. Installed a stage one upgrade and found tracing on two plugs. Purchased new replacement plugs, Magnacor wires and Demond coil which improved drivability for about two months. Then it started missing again. Installed new OE plugs and gapped them to .038 and new Mopar hi performance wires. It seems to be doing really well now. Is any one else having trouble with the carbon tracing on the outside of the plugs? Talked to the dealership mechanic and they are aware of the tracking. It appears that the spark is traveling down the rubber boot etching the plug. Thanks. Bruce, from Oregon.
We haven't received any carbon tracking reports from owners however I have noticed a few forum posts. Carbon tracking appears when the spark jumps to a different (easier) path to ground. Moisture can affect the transfer of the spark voltage and energy, which can create a short to ground or reduce spark plug voltage. Make sure the plugs wells are clean and dry.
Check the ignition wire connections at the coil and plugs to ensure a good/tight connection. Pay close attention to the tube that wraps around the spark plug. Cracks can allow voltage to jump to ground causing a misfire.
Use dielectric grease sparingly and apply correctly - Overuse can cause the wires to partially pop off a hot plug, which creates a loose connection and can cause this condition.
The OE RE14MCC5 plug is fine for the GT. We suggest gapping them to 0.042, to reduce rough idle issues, however if they're working fine at 0.038 I wouldn't mess with them. If the plugs show traces of tracking on the porcelain try to clean them. If drivability issues continue replace them. It is not unheard of to find new defective plugs. If the misfire continues to occur in the same cylinder (after changing the plug and wire) I would look at the fuel injector, and check the cylinder compression to rule out a leaky exhaust valve or head gasket.
The PT's DIS system OE coil is very reliable. Most owners who upgrade to high performance coils report little or no improvement over the OE coil. Interestingly, Chrysler states that its new COP (Coil-On-Plug) ignition system on its LHS and 300M engines delivers 28% more spark energy than earlier ignition systems. This improves combustion and reduces the risk of misfire with lean fuel mixtures (lean mixtures require more voltage to ignite reliably).
1421. I have a preowned 2001 LE PT with 48.5k miles. While driving the clock on the radio display flickers on and off intermittently. Apparently when the clock goes off the horn does not work. I don't know if the clock and horn are on the same circuit but when the clock comes back on the horn works. The radio works just fine but when the clock (display) flickers off you are not able to see the station information. The previous owner had the car serviced at the dealer a year ago for this problem and they replaced the radio twice and the ignition switch, which did not resolve the problem. He got fed up with the dealer and the issue was never resolved. Can you help me in any way? Arnaldo, from Delaware.
Intermittent electrical issues are difficult to resolve unless the dealer can duplicate the issue. If this intermittent condition occurs only when the vehicle is being driven I would begin by inspecting the fuses (PDC=#18 and #17 IOD, and interior fuse box= #2 & #14), radio connector, radio ground and wiring first. Vehicle vibration may be causing a condition which creates an intermittent short in the circuit.
When removing or installing the IOD fuse (PDC #17), it is important that the ignition switch be in the Off position. Failure to place the ignition switch in the Off position can cause the radio display to become scrambled when the IOD fuse is installed. Removing and installing the IOD fuse again with the ignition switch in the Off position will usually correct the scrambled radio display condition.
The ignition switch could affect the radio, and a number have been found faulty on the PT, however the ignition switch does not feed the horn. The horn is fed directly from PDC fuse #14 and functions regardless of the position of the ignition switch.
1422. I have a 2002 LE PT with 83k miles. Occasionally, while driving the brake lamp indicator flickers on and off. What would cause this, and does it need my attention? Thank you. Harry, from Michigan.
The red brake warning indicator located in the instrument cluster can be activated by application of the parking brake, a leak in the front or rear wheel brake hydraulic circuit which causes the master cylinder reservoir to be low on fluid, (could also indicate excessive pad wear) or by turning the ignition switch to the start position. It can also be turned on if the CAB indicates an Electronic Variable Brake Proportioning (EVBP) failure. In this instance, it sounds like the low fluid sensor. When the vehicle is in motion, the fluid sloshes around inside the reservoir, which can set off the sensor. Check the fluid level. If low, inspect the system for leaks and or brake pad wear.
1423. I have a 2005 TE PT with 25k miles. I was installing some LED undercar lights. When I was finished, and locked the car for the evening, my VTSS light started flashing indicating the alarm had been set. The alarm has never worked, or been activated on my car. I thought this was strange, so I got into the car, locked the doors and waited for the flashing to slow down to 1 flash per second. I opened the door and the alarm went off. I quickly de-activated it by pressing the unlock button on my remote. The car is a year old and the alarm has never functioned, nor did I pay for the alarm when I purchased the vehicle. What could I have done to activate the alarm to start working? Kevin, from California.
The security alarm is optional on the base and touring model, and standard equipment on the limited and Turbo. If you didn't order the alarm option on your TE and the VTSS indicator is blinking normally as if the vehicle is armed, or rapidly as if the vehicle has been accessed while armed, something obviously isn't quite right. If you locked your vehicle with the FOB on previous occasions and VTTS indicator did not light, that would be an indication that the security system was not present and or not functioning. First, determine if the alarm system option was actually provided with the vehicle. Your local dealer can easily run the VIN and tell you which options were installed on the vehicle, but the logical conclusion would seem to support the idea that the alarm option IS installed. Why it mysteriously started to work a year later, I can't answer. That would be a warranty issue; time for a trip to the dealer.
1424. I have a 2002 DC PT with 30k miles. Since the front inside brake pads were hardly worn, I'm going to assume the caliper piston is frozen? Is this an easy replacement or something that needs to be done by a shop? Thanks. Bill, from Montana.
The caliper may be suspect, but I would not automatically assume that it caused the uneven pad wear without first inspecting it. If you plan to DIY, we suggest having a service manual on hand for the procedure. Replacement is not difficult for an owner with average DIY automotive skills; the procedure includes the disassembly, cleaning and inspection of the caliper to determine its condition. When changing the pads I would suggest that you select something more durable than the OE pads, and certainly not the Mopar value line pads that most dealers use. They have a shorter life than the OE factory pad. You'll find aftermarket pad recommendations as well as guides for these procedures in the Pit area on the site if you don't have access to a service manual. The OE calipers are only available through your local dealer. Be prepared to replace the caliper pins, sleeves and bushing if necessary.
1425. I have a 2001 LE PT with 38k miles. My PT had a total power loss while driving. I cut off the engine and restarted it and it ran for about 1/4 mile and suffered the power loss again. The dealer said that my battery harness, battery, plugs and ignition wires need to be replaced for an exorbitant $1000, which I feel is unreasonable. Is the harness a simple swap? Why wouldn't this part be covered under the extended warranty? Thanks for all of your help. Adam, from Georgia.
The battery wiring harness is not shown in the IPB or service manual, however the IPB lists the P/N as 4671 631AD wiring, battery 2.4L 4 CYL DOHC 16V for the 2002 model year.
Both the battery positive and negative cables are available for service replacement only as a unit with the battery wire harness, which may include portions of the wiring circuits for the generator and other components on some models. The replacement procedure suggests tracing each of the battery cable retaining pushpins, fasteners and routing clips until the cables are free from the vehicle. Check the price on the harness with your local dealer if you plan to DIY.
Dealers normally charge about $150 to change the plugs. Ignition wires would be additional, but we don't recommend OE replacement wires or plugs, which is what the dealer would use. A DIY'er with average automotive skills can handle this work for a fraction of the cost with the aid of a service manual. If you don't have access to one, we have an excellent plug/ignition wire recommendation / replacement guide in the Pit area on the site. While you're changing the plugs and wires it's good idea inspect and clean the throttle body (see guide on site).
Extended warranty coverage can vary dependent upon provider, plan selection and state that you reside in. You will have to review your policy to determine if coverage is applicable.
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